The end of the Vietnam war,
and the advent of "Doi moi", Vietnam's policy of opening its
economy to foreign trade, means that Westerners and South Vietnamese now
have a chance to visit Ha long. Vinh Ha Long or Bay of the Descending
Dragon is often touted by proud Vietnamese as the world's Eighth wonder.
One of the main attractions of Ha long
is the bay's calm water and the thousands of limestone mountains dotting
the seascape. The Bay's water is clear during the spring and early
summer. Some of the islands are quite large and there are small alcoves
with sandy beaches where swimming is possible. Ha Long bay lies in the
northeastern part of Vietnam and is 165 Km from Hanoi.
Ha Long literally means descending dragon(s) and according to local
myth, the story goes as follows:
Long
ago when their forefathers were fighting foreign invaders from the
north, the gods from heaven sent a family of dragons to help defend
their land. This family of dragons descended upon what is now Ha Long
bay and began spitting out jewels and jade.
Upon hitting the sea, these jewels turned into the various islands and
islets dotting the seascape and formed a formidable fortress against the
invaders. The locals were able to keep their land safe and formed what
is now the country of Vietnam. The Dragon family fell so much in love
with this area for its calm water and for the reverence of the people of
Vietnam that they decided to remain on earth. Mother dragon lies on what
is now Ha Long and where her children lie is Bai Tu Long.
The dragon tails formed the area of Bach Long Vi known for the miles of
white sandy beaches of Tra Co peninsula
This myth is in line with the Vietnamese myth of their origin Con
Rong Chau Tien. This my
th
describes the union between a king (representing the dragon) and his
bride (representing a goddess) giving birth to 100 children which are
the ancestors of the Vietnamese people. The Ha Long myth illustrate the
Vietnamese belief of their origin and the fact that throughout their
history, they are aided by
their ancestors, the dragon and the gods, in the defense of their land.
Scorched Beach (Bai Chay).
Upon arriving in Ha Long city,
the visitor will be driving along 'Bai Chay' or scorched beach. The sand
on this stretch of beach is dark. And judging by the name the visitors
may mistakenly think that this is due to the dry climate or lack o
f
wind in this area. However, contrary to this interpretation, the area is
quite pleasant during the summer and fall months and the temperature
here is around 70 deg F. According to the locals, Bai Chay got its name
long ago, based on another historical event. Bai Chay was once a forest.
In 1287, the Mongols led by the great Truong Van Ho,(a Vietnamese name
for this Mongolian general) attacked Vietnam and was driven back by
general Tran Khanh Du. Many Mongolian ships were set afire and drifted
to shore aided by high wind setting the forest on fire. Since then this
stretch of beach became known as Bai Chay or scorched beach.
From Bai Chay, visitors can hire a boat and go out to the bay. It is
here that visitors will be find some of Southeast Asias most fascinating
sites. Visitors to the
bay speak highly of its almost mystical qualities and the surrealistic
scenery that defines this bay. The limestone formations are both bizarre
and awesome. Over thousands of years the base of many of the formation
have corroded to a point where many seem to be balancing on thin air.
The shapes and the positioning of these formations often resemble
people, animals etc., hence, most are given a name by the locals. Some
of the more famous are: Hang Dau Go ( Wooden Stakes cave), Hang Bo Nau
(Pelican cave), Hang Trinh Nu (the Virgin), Hang Sung Sot (Cave of Awe),
Dong Hang Hanh, Dao Tuan Chau (Sentinel Chau Island), Qua Chuong (the
bell), Con Voi (the elephant) etc.. Now, about one thousand formations
have names. One can't possibly see all of Ha Long grandeur in one day or
even a month since depending on the time of the year, the weather, or
the condition of the bay the visitor may see only one small aspect of Ha
Long's beauty
Hang Dau Go is one of the most
beautiful cave at Ha Long. The name, Dau Go or Giau Go, has direct ties
to the history of Vietnam. According to the locals, while preparing for
the Mongolian attacks in 1288, general Tran Hung Dao, sent a convoy to
this area to cut wood from this region. Wooden stakes were then
fashioned from the wood
and hidden in Dau Go cave. The stakes were embedded in Bach Dang river
to form a barrier against the attacking Mongols. According to legend,
general Tran Hung Dao dealt a great blow to the Kublai Khan when he
tricked the Mongolian army into chasing him deep up Bach Dang's channe
l.
When the tide were down the enemies were stuck in these wooden stakes
driven into the river bed. Dau Go was also the site where general Tran
Khan Du hid his force while waiting for the Mongols led by Truong Van Ho
in 1287.
Dau Go is located on a limestone islet 8 km south of Bai Chay. The islet
itself stands 187 m above sea level. Upon arriving visitors must hike
the 90 rocky steps that lead to the cave's entrance. There are three
chambers with the outer one having the most spectacular stalagmites and
stalactites. Some are as tall as 20 m in height. The locals claim that
these giant formations resemble human forms and are the keepers or
guardians of Dau Go cave. The outer chamber is also the largest with
capacity for three to four thousand people. The cave's floor is
approximately 6 m lower than the entrance and the distance from floor to
ceiling is approximately 25 m.
The middle chamber is accessible through a narrow passage approximately
1.4 m wide. There is a round crystal like structure on the path. When
struck by light, this structure emits a kaleidoscope of light that is
both breathtaking and unique. The inner chamber is famous for the
colorful stalagmites and stalactites.
The inner chamber is much smaller by comparison. It is here that
visitors will find stone wells filled with fresh water. According to the
locals these wells are filled year round.
Dau Go is probably the most famous of all grottoes in Ha Long.
Since its discovery, many Vietnamese dignitaries have visited Dau Go
cave. In 1929, King Khai Dinh (Nguyen dynasty) visited Dau Go cave and
was awed by its beauty. His praise in writing is carved on a stone stele
at the entrance of the cave.
Pelican Cave (Hang Bo Nau)
Unlike Dau Go cave, Bo Nau
cave is not as deep and large. Looking out from the cave the visitor can
enjoy the scenic beauty of Ha Long. The clear blue water with rocky
formations rising forms a picturesque setting. Bo Nau is a compound word
derived from two words, bo cau meaning pigeon and nau meaning brown. Bo
Nau literally means brown pigeon. For some reason, many foreign
translations refer to this cave as Pelican cave.
According to the fishermen in this region, long ago, when there were
still few visitors, Bo Nau cave was home to thousands of pigeons. Today
as more visitors and people begin to inhabit the surrounding islands,
the pigeons have left until only the name Bo Nau remains out of habit of
the local fishermen.
Hang Trinh Nu (Virgin Cave)
Hang Trinh Nu
or the Virgin is also known as Mid Gate cave. According to local lore,
an old couple lived here long ago. The husband made a living fishing
around the bay. They were very poor. They had only one daughter. She
grew up to be a beautiful young woman, so beautiful that people from all
around knew of her. There were many suitors and her reputation
reached the local mandarin. The mandarin immediately sent his soldier to
her home to capture her. She was forced to marry the old mandarin.
After much cajoling and threats the fair maiden still steadfastly
refused. One day, she escaped from the mandarins home, however she was
afraid to return home for fear of retaliation. After much thought, the
maiden decided to go to Mid Gate cave to commit suicide. Her body turned
into the stone statue lying atop a flat surface. Since then, Mid Gate
cave became known as Virgin cave.
Virgin cave tunnels through the middle of an island approximately 2 km
long. Along the tunnel, there are many chambers. Each is famous for a
different reason. All are unique in their beauty. Many visitors to the
cave are awed by its beauty and so the name Hang Sung Sot was given to
the outer chamber of the Virgin cave. Sung Sot literally means
astonishment or awe.
Cave of Awe (Hang Sung Sot)
Sung Sot
cave is on the same island with Trinh Nu cave. The path to Sung Sot is
quite steep and is lined with shady trees. The cave has 2 chambers. The
outer chamber is square and is often referred to as the waiting room.
The cave's ceiling is approximately 30 m high. The walls are almost
perfectly smooth as if it was built by man. The walls generate a variety
of colors that blend with the setting of the area.
The path to the inner chamber is approximately 3m wide. The inner
chamber is known as the serene castle. The formations in the chamber
take the form of sentries conversing with one another, animals in
varying poses etc. In the middle of the chamber stands a formation which
resembles a general surveying his troops.
There is a side entrance which is approximately 6m in height. The light
reflected from the moving water outside causes the formations inside the
chamber to seemingly come alive. According to the locals, this was the
reason the cave was named Sung Sot, from the awe-stricken reaction of
the visitors to the cave
Other attractions in Ha Long
Bay
Dong Hang Hanh tunnels
through mount Quang Hanh 9 km from the township of Cam Pha. The tunnel
and cave is approximately 2 km in length.
To visit this cave the visitors must take a small row boat to access the
entrance. On the way the rower must maneuver through a variety of rock
formation often so narrow that only one boat can fit through at a time.
The air in the tunnel is several degrees cooler than the air outside. As
one proceed deeper into the cave, the surroundings become more
mystifying as the rocky walls take different shapes, sizes, and hues.
Hang Hanh contains many formations. One formation takes the form of a
drum (for water)
called Ang gao. One looks
like a temple with millions of diamond-like crystals as its outer layer.
There are several columns of rocks that look like remnants of buildings
from some ancient world. These monoliths are several stories high.
Theres also a formation of a natural amphitheater in the middle of the
water with smaller formations in place as the audience.
Ao Tien or Pond of the Nymphs, was named by the locals because it
was rumored this is where the nymphs gathered to take a bath. The
limestone walls surrounds this part of the ocean creating a natural pond
in the middle of the bay. Ao Tien is located in an island with a
lagoon-like setting, surrounded by limestone walls, accessible only by
small row boats and only in low tides. During high tide, the water rise
to cover the opening and keep the water here clean. The water in Ao Tien
is only chest deep and very warm. During low tide visitors can disembark
from the bigger boat and use a row boat to enter Ao Tien. Some visitors
even swim through the opening without using a boat. Many tourists use Ao
Tien as a place to sunbathe and wade.
Like Ao tien, Hang Luon is in the middle of rock formations the
center of which is an open area where the water is clear and calm. There
is also a sandy beach. However, Hang luon's opening is substantially
bigger than the opening of Ao Tien. Depending on the tide, a large boat
can go through the tunnel.
Tuan Chau island or
Sentinel Chau Island is 3 km west of Dau Go cave. The island is
approximately 3 km2. This island is inhabited by people. The nurturing
hands of humans have turned this island into a fertile farm producing
vegetables and fruits for the outlying mining and fishing villages of Ha
Long Bay.
According to the inhabitants, Tuan Chau is a derivative of two words.
Before the revolutionary war, each island was under the surveillance of
an officer. Each was in charge of a group of sentinels assigned to keep
security for one island in the bay. There were several of such officers
assigned to Ha Long. The Vietnamese words, linh tuan means sentinel(s)
and tri Chau means mandarin (officer) Chau, hence the combination of the
two words
means Tuan Chau or Sentinel
Chau.
There is a bamboo hut on the island that has became a shrine, since it
was rumored that this place was favored by Ho Chi Minh when he visited
Ha Long. The hut is maintained and kept by the people of the island.
Today visitors to the island can visit the hut as if it was a historical
monument.
Poem Mountain stands over the city of Hon Gai. On his visit to Ha
Long, King Le Thanh Tong (15th century) wrote a poem glorifying Ha
Long's beauty. This poem is carved on a stele on Nui Truyen Dang which
was later renamed Nui Bai Tho or Poem Mountain. The King was a poet and
the person responsible for forming the group of intellectuals, Tao Dan
Nhi Thap Bat Tu, or Tao Dan twenty-eight scholars.
Cua Ong Temple is located on a hill over looking Bai Tu Long Bay.
The temple was built as a shrine to mandarin Tran Quoc Tang, the son of
Vietnams most famous general Tran Hung Dao.
In 1283, during the height of the war against Mongolia, Tran Quoc Tang
was sent here to build a fort to defend this frontier. This area was
known for its rough and less than ideal conditions. Tran Quoc Tang
created a government here and turned the area into a prosperous place.
Tran Quoc Tang was made supreme commander and became one of Vietnams
most successful general. During this period, there were many bands of
outlaws and pirates harassing the people in this region. General Tang
successfully wiped out many of these bandits and brought peace to this
area. He was also successful in keeping the great Mongolian army at bay
during their numerous attempt to invade Vietnam. The people revered him
so much that he became a demigod to them. So much reverence was given to
general Tang that he was dubbed King of the Sea while he was still
alive!
General Tang died in 1313 at the age of 61. The people in the region
mourned his passing and built a shrine in his honor. Today, the words
Great Eastern Sea King are still imprinted on the placard at the
entrance of the temple. Den Cua Ong was built in the Le dynasty (17th
century), but was later remodeled in the Nguyen dynasty (17th - 19th
century). Every year during Tet, Vietnamese new year, the people in this
area have a festival to celebrate and honor General Tang.