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Vinh is
roughly halfway between Hanoi and Hue located twenty kilometres from the
sea in the narrowest part of Vietnam. The Lam River loops round the
south and east of the city, and the mountains of Laos are clearly
visible to the west.
It’s a sizeable urban area with about a quarter of a million people, and
the capital of Nghe An Province. Its harsh climate, frequently subject
to a hot dry wind from the west and violent storms from the South China
Sea, coupled with its poor quality soil, has made Vinh one of the
poorest provincial cities in Vietnam.
Founded in
1802, it was more or less destroyed during the French-Vietnamese War.
After rebuilding and reaching city status in 1962, it was again
flattened during the American War. This time it was rebuilt with
assistance from the now-defunct German Democratic Republic.
To say it
lacks charm is an understatement. If you're a fan of East German ‘social
realist’ architecture, you'd probably be impressed, but for anyone else,
it’s an undistinguished straggle of buildings surrounded by rice
paddies, and not much more.
Vinh is
bisected by Highway 1. It is also served by the north-south rail link
and regular flights to and from Hanoi. It’s possible to cross the border
into Laos at the Cau Tre border gate, about 105km west of Vinh. About
10km from the city is the Cua Lo port. Nearby is a long stretch of white
sand beach lined with poor quality hotel development. The beach is
poorly maintained and dirty – even so, it’s very popular with Hanoi
city-dwellers as the nearest thing to a seaside resort in the north of
Vietnam.
In our view,
there are only two reasons for including Vinh in a tour programme. The
first is as a stopping-off point for a road trip along Highway 1 – one
of Vinh's few plus points is a couple of reasonable hotels.
The other is
to visit Kim Lien, a small village 14km west of Vinh, where Nguyen Sinh
Cung was born in 1890. His father, a minor mandarin expelled from the
Imperial Court for his anti-colonialist sympathies, could hardly suspect
his son would become Vietnam’s saviour and one of the greatest leaders
of the twentieth century as Ho Chi Minh.
There's not
much to see apart from a few reconstructed houses and a small museum,
but it’s a place to stand on one of the world’s historical crossroads.
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